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Camino de Santiago - Purpose |
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I have not yet done a "pilgrimage" as a vacation trip, so what better one to do
than the Camino de Santiago? The Camino de Santiago is a network of pilgrims' ways or pilgrimages leading to the shrine of the apostle James in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle are buried. For this trip, the purpose was: I will be doing the Camino Portuguese (Portuguese Way), with the first 1.5 days on the Coastal Route and the rest on the Central Route. I'll be walking for 13 days, starting in Porto, Portugal, and ending in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. My return flight home was from Madrid, Spain, so I visited the Spanish cities of A Coruña, León, and Madrid after completing the Camino. |
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Map of My Camino de Compostela Stages |
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Click here for a calendar view of my trip itinerary. |
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Camino Day 0: Porto |
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My Camino trip begins in Porto, Portugal. I arrived in the afternoon on 2024 September 12,
so I had a day and a half to get my peregrino credentials, do touristy things,
and to overcome jetlag before starting the pilgrimage. Here's the Letras do Porto, with the Câmara Municipal do Porto (Porto City Hall) in the background. This is a popular spot for tourists (and pilgrims) to have their picture taken with. |
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View of Porto from Ponte Luís I, looking north west.
Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral) is at the top right of the picture,
with the Douro River below.
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Looking north east from the south tower of Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral).
The Cathedral's north tower in in the foreground on the right,
and the Torre dos Clérigos is the tower in the distance.
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Looking south west on Rua das Flores (Flower Street), near Rua do Ferraz.
Vegetable and lush flower gardens gave this street its name.
In fact, the land used for the street was originally the gardens of Pedro Alvarez da Costa, Bishop of Porto.
He was devoted to Saint Catherine of Mount Sinai.
The initial name for the street was "Saint Catherine Flowers Street", opened in 1525 in the reign of King Manuel.
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Ponte Luís I The Ponte Luís I (Luís I Bridge) is a double-deck metal arch bridge that spans the river Douro between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia in Portugal. Completed in 1877, its 172 metres span was the longest of its type in the world. |
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Sé do Porto A UNESCO Heritage Site, the Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral) is located atop Penaventosa Hill in the historical centre of Porto. Construction of the cathedral began in 1110 with Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture. The structure looks both like a cathedral and a fortress. |
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Fonte dos Leões Located in the Praça de Gomes Teixeira, the Fonte dos Leões (Fountain of Lions) was inaugurated in 1882 and consists of four bronze griffins (half lion, half eagle). |
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Igreja dos Carmelitas, Casa Escondida, Igreja do Carmo What is pictured here are actually two churches and a house. On the left is the Igreja dos Carmelitas, a Baroque style church completed in 1622, and to the right is the Igreja do Carmo, a Rococo style church completed in 1768. Sandwiched between the two churches is a 1.5 meter wide house, the Casa Escondida (Hidden House); this house was built so to separate the two churches. |
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Estação de São Bento The Estação de São Bento (São Bento Station) is a train station in Porto. What makes it special is the entrance hall of the station, which is adorned with over 20,000 tiles that form scenes telling stories of life in Portugal. |
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Torre dos Clérigos The Torre dos Clérigos (Clérigos Tower) is a 76 meter tall Baroque bell tower for the Clérigos Church, completed in 1763, designed by Italian-born Nicolau Nasoni. |
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Pelourinho do Porto Located on the plaza in front of the Catedral do Porto, is the Pelourinho do Porto (Porto Pillar). Installed in 1945, it is a replica of one that was there during medieval times and used for punishment; now it is mainly a symbol of the justice and political and administrative power. |
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Jardins do Palácio de Cristal Located in the Massarelos parish of Porto, the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal (Crystal Palace Gardens) was a nice park to chill out in. There were wild chickens and a peacock milling about. |
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My albergue in Porto, Portugal.
The Albergue de Peregrinos Porto is a private hostel for the exclusive use of pilgrims. It was a nice hostel, near the Metro Station. I got the bottom bunk in a room with 6 beds. I paid for the hostel breakfast 4€, which includes hard boiled eggs, toast, juice or coffee. I got my Credencial de Peregrino at the hostel for 2€, and a roommate gave me her Scallop Shell for attaching to my backpack. This is a good hostel to prepare and start the Camino from. |
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Camino Day 1: Porto to Labruge |
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Stage 01: 2024 September 14 Start: Porto, Portugal Nevogilde, Matosinhos, Cabo du Mundo, Agudela End: Labruge, Portugal Distance: 21.63 km (Total: 21.63 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8163639421 |
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0.8 km → ☺ → 20.8 km My first day on the Portuguese Camino - Coastal Way, had me starting out at sunrise and walking through the city of Porto, on my way to the coast (Porto is located inland). I passed by the Monumento aos Heróis da Guerra Peninsular, located in the Rotunda da Boavista. This monument honours those in the Peninsular War (1808-1814), which was the one that united the Portuguese and the English against the armies of France. |
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5.9 km → ☺ → 15.7 km After walking 5.9 km, I reached the Atlantic Coast at Nevogilde. Praça de Gonçalves Zarco (Gonçalves Zarco Square) has a statue of D. João VI, who was the King of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves from 1816 to 1822. |
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10.1 km → ☺ → 11.5 km I'm 10.1 km into the Camino, and I'm feeling tired. I'm shown here in Matosinhos next to a Way Marker with my backpack and obligatory scallop shell hanging on the back. |
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11.2 km → ☺ → 10.4 km The walk on the Coastal Way has the Atlantic Ocean to my left. Ahead on the path is the 46 meter tall Farol de Leça (Leça Lighthouse), located in Leça da Palmeira. |
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13.0 km → ☺ → 8.6 km Sections of this portion of the Camino are elevated boardwalks. This is to help preserve the beachfront environment. |
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15.4 km → ☺ → 6.2 km O Obelisco da Memória marks the spot where, on July 8 1832, King Pedro IV and the 7500 men of his army disembarked, marking the end of the regime that had dominated Portugal. Construction of the obelisk began in 1840 and was completed in 1864. |
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20.2 km → ☺ → 1.4 km A wooden tied arch bridge over the Rio Onda had to be crossed to enter Labruge. The town of Labruge has a population of 3000 (2021 census) and an area of 5.07 km². |
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Labruge Albergue It was a tough day on my first day on the Camino. I was concerned about getting a bed at this hostel, as there was a group of 20 school kids at the Porto hostel that were coming to this hostel. Well, when I arrived at this hostel, they were already here! I think they put them in a special "room" together, as I did get a bed (bottom bunk). During the walk this day, I was asked "are you OK?" a couple of times; I guess I must've looked like I was suffering. Besides my legs being tired, my shoulders were also sore. |
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Camino Day 2: Labruge to Rates |
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Stage 02: 2024 September 15 Start: Labruge, Portugal Vila Chã, Vila do Conde, Rio Mau End: Rates, Portugal Distance: 21.63 km (Total: 43.26 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8165340073 |
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1.2 km → ☺ → 20.4 km I departed the albergue in Labruge before sunrise. It was a nice cool walk on the cobblestones between the cornfields out of Labruge, approaching the town of Vila Chã. |
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3.9 km → ☺ → 17.7 km Once I was back on the coast, the Camino was again a boardwalk. This section of boardwalk is next to Praia de Mindelo Sul (Mindelo Beach South). |
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5.8 km → ☺ → 15.8 km The boardwalk section through the Mindelo Ornithological Reserve was closed, so we were detoured onto Areia Beach for this section of the Portuguese Camino - Coastal Way. Ahead in the distance is the town of Vila do Conde. |
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7.4 km → ☺ → 14.2 km With Vila do Conde ahead of me, this is the last section of boardwalk along the Atlantic coast I will traverse, as I will be heading inland and transitioning to the Portuguese Camino - Central Way from here. |
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7.8 km → ☺ → 13.8 km Walking the Camino on the Portuguese Coastal Way was straightforward, as you just keep the Atlantic Coast to your left. Moving inland, one has to keep an eye out for the yellow arrows that guide you along the Way. Here, the yellow arrow is painted on the rock. |
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11.5 km → ☺ → 10.1 km The transition from the Portuguese Camino - Coastal Way to the Central Way is a bit adhoc. From Vila do Conde, the next town I passed through was Touguinha. The walk was mostly on cobblestone sidewalks next to main roads (here I'm on route M525), with corn fields to my right. |
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16.6 km → ☺ → 5.0 km After walking 5 km from Touguinha, I found myself arriving in the town of Rio Mau. It was mostly walking on the sidewalk of main roads, next to corn fields. |
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19.7 km → ☺ → 1.9 km After 3 km of walking from Rio Mau, I was on the outskirts of Rates. The sign indicates the temperature was 31C .... yes, it was a warm and sunny day! |
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21.1 km → ☺ → 0.5 km Greeting me on my entry to Rates is a statue of São Pedro de Rates. São Pedro de Rates was the first bishop of Braga between the years AD 45 and 60, and was beheaded while converting believers of the Roman religion to the Christian faith. The population of Rates in 2011 was 2,505, occupying an area of 13.90 km². Rates is a medieval township with records dating back to the 11th century. |
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Rates Albergue It was another tough day on the Camino, as my legs were really tired and my shoulders were sore. It was also a very warm and sunny day, but I'm not complaining about that. This day was a Sunday, so stores were closed and the Cafe closed early. I didn't know that, so when I got up from my siesta, everything was closed. I had to survive the day eating cookies I had in my pack. This was a relatively rustic hostel, and the metal frame bunk bed was wobbly. I'm happy I got the bottom bunk though. I did spend 1€ to get a disposable bedsheet set. I would keep the disposable bedsheet for use at other hostels that do not provide bedsheets. |
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Camino Day 3: Rates to Barcelos |
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Stage 03: 2024 September 16 Start: Rates, Portugal Pedra Furada, Pereira, Barcelinhos End: Barcelos, Portugal Distance: 16.77 km (Total: 60.03 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8166938128 |
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0.0 km → ☺ → 16.8 km Before heading out, I grabbed breakfast at the local cafe, as I was hungry after missing out on getting a meal the previous day (as it was Sunday). The panini toast and ham omelette (5€) was tasty! |
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1.5 km → ☺ → 15.3 km After walking 1.5 km out of Rates, I crossed into the District of Braga, Municipality of Barcelos. Here was the Barcelos style of Way Marker, indicating I've only got 209 more kilometers to Santiago de Compostela. |
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1.8 km → ☺ → 15.0 km Parque Santiago - Macieira de Rates has a large Galo de Barcelos as well as a cache of peregrino trinkets (old shoes, ribbons, stones, shells, flags, etc). This park is a rest area for peregrinos. |
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5.0 km → ☺ → 11.8 km At 5 km out of Rates, there was a nice view of the town of Real and the countryside, from the Camino (Rua do Quintão). |
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11.9 km → ☺ → 4.9 km I'm passing through the town of Carvalhal. The Way Marker says it is 199 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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15.1 km → ☺ → 1.7 km Galo in Barcelinhos, next to the Ponte Medieval de Barcelos (Medieval Bridge of Barcelos). The bridge connects Barcelinhos to Barcelos. The population of Barcelos in 2011 was 120,391, in an area of 378.90 km². |
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15.3 km → ☺ → 1.5 km View of the Ponte Medieval de Barcelos (Medieval Bridge of Barcelos) and Barcelinhos, from Barcelos. Rio Cávado is the river that separates Barcelos from Barcelinhos. |
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15.4 km → ☺ → 1.4 km The Museu Arqueológico de Barcelos is an open air museum located on the grounds of the former Palace of the Counts of Barcelos. Constructed in the early 15th century, it continued to be used as the residence of the Counts until the 17th century, when it began to fall into ruins, a process that was accelerated by an earthquake in 1755. Items found in the museum include a Mediaeval sarcophagi, heraldic symbols, boundary stones of the House of Bragança, various architectural features from dismantled churches and monasteries and sculpted blazons from former noble houses that have since disappeared are all to be found in the archaeological collection on exhibition here. |
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15.7 km → ☺ → 1.1 km There is 195 km left to go to Santiago de Compostela, as indicated on the marker on the Camino in Barcelos. |
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Galo de Barcelos There were various Galo de Barcelos (Rooster of Barcelos) located around town. It is a symbol of Portugal that represents the Portuguese love of life and the ability to face challenges. The rooster is based on a legend from the 15th century in the town of Barcelos: The Inhabitants were very disturbed by a crime of which it had not been possible to discover the author. One day, however, there appeared a man from Galicia, who was suspected of committed it. He was arrested and, notwithstanding his protestations of innocence, nobody believed him when he said that he was on his way to Saint James of Compostelle (Spain) to fulfill a vow and that He was a fervant devotee of the Saint venerated in Compostela on a par with St Paul and Our Lady. And so He was condemned to be hanged. But before his execution, He asked to be taken to the presence of the judge who pronounced the sentence. His request was granted and they took him to the house of the magistrate, who was dining with some friends. The Galician once again protested His innocence and, to the amazement of those present, pointed to a roasted Cock on the table and exclaimed, "As surely as I am inncocent will that cock crow if I am hanged!" There was an outburst of laughter and comments, nevertheless nobody touched the Cock. And what seemed impossible actually happened. When the pilgrim was being hanged, the Cock stood up on the table and crowed. The judge rushed to the gallows and horrified saw the wretched man with the rope round his neck, but the knot was caught and thus prevented him from being strangled. He was immediatly released and sent on his way in peace. |
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Besides the Cocks, there are other colourful and interesting sculptures around in Barcelos.
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Barcelos Albergue The planned distance today was "short" (16.7 km), and I did have company on the Camino today, so the walk seemed to go by quickly today, and my legs were feeling OK. The hostel was OK, but pretty full, as they had people sleeping on mats on the floor when the bunk beds were filled up. Luckily, I did get a bottom bunk and I got to utilize the disposable sheets I saved from the previous hostel. It was also pretty warm, with only fans providing cooling. |
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Camino Day 4: Barcelos to Vitorino dos Piães |
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Stage 04: 2024 September 17 Start: Barcelos, Portugal Vila Boa, Sabatz, Aborim, Balugães End: Vitorino dos Piães, Portugal Distance: 21.25 km (Total: 81.28 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8169089176 |
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0.5 km → ☺ → 20.8 km Leaving Barcelos at sunrise, the first Distance Way Marker indicates there's 194 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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1.5 km → ☺ → 19.8 km There were forest fires in the area. The walk this morning did have a bit of smoke in the air. This made for a hazy reddish sunrise early in the walk, as I entered the town of Vila Boa. |
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3.0 km → ☺ → 18.3 km Cruceiros are stone crosses, and are said to protect travelers and forgive sins. They are typically found in churchyards and crossroads. This one was in Vila Boa, approximately 3 km into my walk from Barcelos. I will be seeing many Cruceiros on this pilgrimage. |
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5.7 km → ☺ → 15.6 km Much of the Camino has been on cobblestone trails and sidewalks. Here at the 188 km Distance Way Marker, the trail is a dirt path. At this point, I'm 5.7 km out of Barcelos and in the town of Lijó. |
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8.5 km → ☺ → 12.8 km This Cruceiro was found at the intersection of Rua de Cruz & M543, in Tamel - São Pedro Fins. It has been an uphill walk for the last 1.4 km. |
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9.1 km → ☺ → 12.2 km The Cruzeiro da Portela de Tamel (Séc XVIII) is located in the plaza of Capela Nossa Senhora do Rosário da Portela, in Tamel (São Pedro Fins). Note the Scallop Shell and Way Marker mosaic made from cobblestones. |
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11.3 km → ☺ → 13.0 km At 11.3 km from Barcelos, the Camino is a dirt path that passes through corn fields. It appears that corn is a major crop in Portugal, as I have passed by so many corn fields. |
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13.1 km → ☺ → 8.2 km Here on Rua Ponte das Tabuas, Aguiar, the Camino is cobblestones in a forest. |
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13.8 km → ☺ → 7.5 km At 13.75 km on the Camino from Barcelos, is the medieval bridge Ponte das Tábuas, in Aguiar. This 16th Century bridge crosses the Neiva River. |
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16.0 km → ☺ → 5.3 km View looking east at Poiares from Rua da Mó, Balugães. It's 16 km of walking from Barcelos to here. |
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21.0 km → ☺ → 0.3 km I've arrived in the village of Vitorino dos Piães. The Igreja Paroquial de Santo André de Vitorino dos Piães is the centre of the village. Vitorino dos Piães has a population of 1,544 (2011 census) and an area of 13.60 km². |
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Vitorino dos Piães Albergue Today was really the first day on the Camino where my legs felt strong and good to go. It was a warm and nice day on the Camino. The Albergue I had planned on staying at was full, so I was had to continue on and was able to find a bed at this private hostel. It was a really nice hostel with privacy curtains, night light, and power outlets at each bed. It also had cloth bedsheets! A decent dinner (soup, bread, spaghetti, wine and juice) at the hostel was 10€. |
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Camino Day 5: Vitorino dos Piães to Ponte de Lima |
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Stage 05: 2024 September 18 Start: Vitorino dos Piães, Portugal Portela, Sobreiro End: Ponte de Lima, Portugal Distance: 12.48 km (Total: 93.76 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8170902976 |
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0.0 km → ☺ → 12.5 km Just before departing the Casa Sagres hostel, I took in the serene view, looking NorthEast. |
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0.3 km → ☺ → 12.2 km There was a Cruceiro on the path out of Vitorino dos Piães. |
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1.5 km → ☺ → 11.0 km I'm walking on the side of the road when I encounter the "Leaving Vitorino dos Piães" sign. There's not much of a shoulder on this section of road to walk on. |
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2.1 km → ☺ → 10.4 km I'm back on the dirt section of the Camino trail [2 km out from Vitorino dos Piães]. It is nice walking through the forest, with no cars to bother you. |
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3.3 km → ☺ → 9.2 km Suddenly appearing is a Peregrino rest area, which has a water fountain, a niche of Santiago, and trinkets left by peregrinos. |
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3.4 km → ☺ → 9.1 km At 3.4 km out from Vitorino dos Piães, the trail has changed from being dirt to being paved with cobblestone. |
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4.2 km → ☺ → 8.3 km The Capela de São Sebastião (Saint Sebastian Chapel) is a small medieval chapel found along the Camino just south of Facha. |
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4.3 km → ☺ → 8.2 km Just north of the Capela de São Sebastião is a Cruceiro, at the instersection of Rua da Latada & Caminho de Santiago. The Camino continues to the left. |
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5.2 km → ☺ → 7.3 km There was this nice rock Way Marker on a stone wall. The Camino in the town of Facha here is paved with asphalt. |
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5.4 km → ☺ → 7.1 km A nice Peregrino rest area, complete with water and benches and a Way marker. |
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6.1 km → ☺ → 6.4 km 6 km from Vitorino dos Piães |
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9.6 km → ☺ → 2.9 km In the town of Correlhã is this "P.de LIMA 1Km" Sign and Bench. |
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10.3 km → ☺ → 2.2 km On Rua do Topo, approaching Pont de Lima, the Camino goes under grape trellises on a cobblestone path. |
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11.0 km → ☺ → 1.5 km View of Ponte Nossa Senhora da Guia in the foreground, and the Medieval bridge Ponte de Lima in background. |
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11.2 km → ☺ → 1.3 km Entering Ponte de Lima, the Camino passes by the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Gui (Our Lady of Gui Church). This church was built around 1630. |
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11.9 km → ☺ → 0.6 km Approaching the south east end of the Medieval Ponte de Lima, with the Igreja de Santo António da Torre Velha at the north west end of the bridge. The hill in the background is Monte de Santo Ovídeo. |
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12.3 km → ☺ → 0.2 km On the Medieval Ponte de Lima bridge deck over the Rio Lima. The Roman section of the bridge dates back to the 1st century, and the medieval section was completed around 1359. The albergue I'll be staying at this night is just beyond the church at the north end of the bridge. |
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12.5 km → ☺ → 0.0 km This is the view from the albergue, with the Medieval bridge and Igreja de Santo António da Torre Velha in the foreground, and the old town of Ponte de Lima in the background across the river. The town is located on the southern bank of Rio Lima and is named after the medieval bridge, having a population of 2800. |
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Ponte de Lima Albergue It was a nice day on the Camino this day. As this is my shortest day (only 12.5 km), I got into town early and visited the sites of Ponte de Lima. However, when I returned from sightseeing, a lineup to register for a bed at the albergue had formed, so I was at the back of the line. Fortunately, there were still beds available by the time I got to the front. The municipal hostel was pretty basic. The room just had beds right next to each other, so there was very little privacy between beds. No bedsheets were available; however, as I had been saving my disposable bedsheets, you can see my bed on the right is the only one with sheets on it! |
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Camino Day 6: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães |
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Stage 06: 2024 September 19 Start: Ponte de Lima, Portugal Arcozelo, Labruja End: Rubiães, Portugal Distance: 17.61 km (Total: 111.37 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8172906376 |
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0.5 km → ☺ → 17.1 km I departed Ponte de Lima at sunrise; soon I'm passing by vineyards. Monte de Santo Ovídeo is the hill in the background. |
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4.4 km → ☺ → 13.2 km It's another smokey sunrise (due to a nearby forest fire), as seen from the Camino in Arcozelo. |
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7.8 km → ☺ → 9.8 km Now in Labruja, the Camino is on the side of the road for a section. One has to be aware at all times for cars when walking on the side of the road. |
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9.1 km → ☺ → 8.5 km From the Camino, there's a nice view of the town and the Igreja Paroquial de São Cristóvão de Labruja. |
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9.7 km → ☺ → 7.9 km I'm back walking on the side of the road. Note the Way Marker on the utility pole on the left. This is 9.7 km from Ponte de Lima. |
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9.8 km → ☺ → 7.8 km Now no longer on the main road, there are grape vines along the side of the Camino. |
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11.3 km → ☺ → 6.3 km The Camino in Labruja now takes me on a dirt path in the forest. |
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11.5 km → ☺ → 6.1 km At a 90 degree turn in the Camino path was this large stone "Bom Caminho" marker. |
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11.7 km → ☺ → 5.9 km The Way marker indicates the Camino heads off to the left, off the main forest trail. The steep section of today's Camino begins here, ascending Alto da Labruja. The altitude change from Ponte de Lima to the top of Alto da Labruja is 400 meters. |
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12.0 km → ☺ → 5.6 km The steep section of the Camino here had me scrambling up rocky steps. Note the Way marker on the tree and on a rock on the path. |
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12.1 km → ☺ → 5.5 km Around half way up the steep section of this portion of the Camino is a Cruceiro. |
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12.1 km → ☺ → 5.5 km A little more scrambling up the rocks is required, as one can see ahead that the steep section may be coming to an end. Note the Way marker on the rock on the ground on the right, and a scallop shell on the tree on the right. |
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12.8 km → ☺ → 4.8 km The steep section completed, I was out of the forest, and there was this Way marker made of stones on the path. The descent of Alto da Labruja begins. |
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13.6 km → ☺ → 4.0 km Near the bottom of the descent of Alto da Labruja is a Cruceiro. |
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13.9 km → ☺ → 3.7 km There was a shepherd and a bunch of sheep blocking my way on the Camino. Don't Peregrinos have priority on the path? |
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15.3 km → ☺ → 2.3 km I'm walking by the town of Águalonga. The Igreja Matriz de Águalonga is in view prominantly on the hillside. |
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15.4 km → ☺ → 2.2 km The Camino here is on some high ground, and about to descend into the valley. The town of Águalonga is on the other side of the valley.. |
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16.6 km → ☺ → 1.0 km I'm arriving in the village of Rubiães. The population of Rubiães in 2011 was 512, in an area of 9.08 km². |
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17.3 km → ☺ → 0.3 km East of the Igreja de Rubiães is a Cruceiro next to the Camino. |
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Igreja de Rubiães The Igreja de Rubiães dates back to 1295, and has been declared a National Monument of Portugal. |
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Ponte Romano-medieval de Rubiães The Ponte Romano-medieval de Rubiães (Rubiães Medieval Roman Bridge) provided the connection for the XIX Roman Military Way over the River Coura. The bridge allowed the Romans passage from Bracara Augusta towards Astorga. |
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Rubiães Albergue It was a hilly Camino this day, with a 400 meter climb over Alto da Labruja, before descending into Rubiães. The legs got a workout this day. The dorm in the Rubiães Albergue felt very crowded. The power outlets in the dorm also didn't work, so we had to charge our devices in the common areas. |
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Camino Day 7: Rubiães to Tui |
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Stage 07: 2024 September 20 Start: Rubiães, Portugal Gontomil, Fontoura, Valença End: Tui, Spain Distance: 21.05 km (Total: 132.42 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8175025027 |
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1.2 km → ☺ → 19.9 km Leaving Rubiães, this is the Way marker. Heading to Tui, Spain. |
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3.8 km → ☺ → 17.3 km On the Camino, we pass by the Capela de Nossa Senhora do Alívio, a chapel in Linhares. |
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3.9 km → ☺ → 17.2 km There are nice views of the village of Linhares from the Camino. |
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5.2 km → ☺ → 15.9 km Entering Fontoura, the Camino is a dirt path through the forest. |
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10.2 km → ☺ → 10.9 km Along the Camino in Fontoura is the Albergue Quinta Estrada Romana, where they have direction arrows to various places in the world. The arrow to Santiago de Compostela says it is 135 km away. |
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10.8 km → ☺ → 10.3 km After crossing the Ponte Romana de Cerdal, there was a large heart embedded with scallop shells. |
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12.6 km → ☺ → 8.5 km I've arrived at the outskirts of Valença, after walking 12.6 km from Rubiães. Valença is a town in Portugal that is on the border with Spain. It had a population of 14,127 (in 2011) and occupies an area of 117.13 square km. |
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13.7 km → ☺ → 7.4 km I'm entering the settlement of Arão, located in southern Valença. Note the Way Marker painted on the rock wall on the right. I am now walking through an urban area. |
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16.7 km → ☺ → 4.4 km On the path to Fortaleza de Valença (Valença Fortress), there were these artfully painted rocks. |
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16.8 km → ☺ → 4.3 km I've arrived at the outer wall moat gateway of Fortaleza de Valença (Valença Fortress). Note the Way Marker arrow on the left. The Fortaleza de Valença actually consists of two fortresses, composed of bastions, bulwarks, watchtowers, turrets, and moats. The earliest constructions at the fortressdate back to the 13th century, but most of what exists today was built in the 17th century. I'm at the gateway of the southern fortress. |
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16.8 km → ☺ → 4.3 km After passing through the outer wall gateway, one encounters the inner wall gateway, called "Portas da Coroada", at the Fortaleza de Valença. |
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16.8 km → ☺ → 4.3 km Here I'm between the inside and outside wall of Fortaleza de Valença, looking west. The outer bulwark is to the left, and the inner bulwark is to the right. |
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16.8 km → ☺ → 4.3 km Looking east between the inside and outside wall of Fortaleza de Valença. The outer bulwark is to the right, and the inner bulwark is to the left. Fortaleza de Valença: Portas da Coroada (looking east) |
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17.2 km → ☺ → 3.9 km This is a view, looking west, on the bridge between the north and south fortresses of Fortaleza de Valença. The south fortress wall is on the left, and the north fortress wall is on the right. |
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17.3 km → ☺ → 3.8 km Inside the Fortaleza de Valença, looking south on Rua Conselheiro Lopes da Silva. Very touristy. |
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17.3 km → ☺ → 3.8 km Inside the Fortaleza de Valença, looking north on Rua Conselheiro Lopes da Silva. There are gift shops and restaurants here. |
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17.4 km → ☺ → 3.7 km Inside the Fortaleza de Valença, on Rua de Mouzinho de Albuquerque. There were a lots of tourists here. It was hard to spot Way Markers. |
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17.8 km → ☺ → 3.3 km Here is a view looking east from the north Fortaleza de Valença bulwark. |
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17.9 km → ☺ → 3.2 km This is a view of Rio Minho and Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença from a turret in the north section of Fortaleza de Valença, looking north. |
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17.9 km → ☺ → 3.2 km This is a view of Rio Minho and Ponte Nova Tui-Valença from a turret in the north section of Fortaleza de Valença, looking west. |
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17.9 km → ☺ → 3.2 km Looking southeast along northeast upper wall at Fortaleza de Valença. |
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17.9 km → ☺ → 3.2 km A lookout turret along northeast wall of Fortaleza de Valença. |
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18.0 km → ☺ → 3.1 km I'm leaving the Fortaleza de Valença; I found this Way Marker on the rock wall. It was easy to get lost inside Fortaleza de Valença, as there were a lot of tourists and Way Markers were not easy to spot. |
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18.2 km → ☺ → 2.9 km I'm at the Southeast end of Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença. The Way Marker on the left says to cross the bridge. |
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18.5 km → ☺ → 2.6 km The border between Portugal and Spain is in the middle of Rio Minho. Thus, on Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença, here I'm straddling Portugal (on the left) and Spain (on the right). |
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18.5 km → ☺ → 2.6 km Looking west from Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença (while straddling the border) at Ponte Nova Tui-Valença |
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18.7 km → ☺ → 2.4 km Now I'm in Tui, Spain; I'm met with the España Sign. Tui is in the province of Pontevedra and has a population of 16,902 (2018) and covers an area of 68.3 square km. |
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19.5 km → ☺ → 1.6 km Looking back at Ponte Rodo-Ferroviária de Valença from the Camino in Tui, Spain. |
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19.5 km → ☺ → 1.6 km Tui is in Galicia. Galicia is an autonomous community and historic region in northwestern Spain. The capital of Galicia is Santiago de Compostela. Here I am with the Galician style Distance Way Marker; the Way Marker says I am only 118.464 km from Santiago de Compostela. Note there is also an older style Way Marker next to the newer style marker. |
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19.8 km → ☺ → 1.3 km On the Camino, as one enters Tui, one can see the Catedral de Santa María de Tui perched atop the hill. |
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20.9 km → ☺ → 0.2 km Catedral de Santa María de Tui is a cathedral in the center of Tui. Contruction of the Romanesque and Gothic style Roman Catholic church began in the 12th century. |
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Catedral de Santa María de Tui - Entrance
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Catedral de Santa María de Tui - Inside
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This Tui souvenir Shop has a sign indicating the distances from different towns to Santiago de Compostela.
It says it's only 114.5 km to Santiago de Compostela from here.
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Plaza de la Inmaculada is a square in Tui with restaurants and shops.
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Tui Albergue It was a cloudy day on the Camino. My legs are strong and have no problems no, as I'm walking at a good pace now. Today I cross over into Spain from Portugal, signifying the halfway point of my pilgrimage. The hostel was OK, but unfortunately, the WiFi in the Galician municipal hostels require registration where they SMS text your WiFi credentials to you. It appears that they are unable to SMS text message to North American phone numbers, such as my phone, so I was without WiFi at the hostel. I had to go to local cafes for WiFi in Tui. This will be an issue if I want to stay at municipal hostels. |
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Camino Day 8: Tui to O Porriño |
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Stage 08: 2024 September 21 Start: Tui, Spain Orbenlle, Centeáns End: O Porriño, Spain Distance: 17.53 km (Total: 149.95 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8176631578 |
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1.7 km → ☺ → 15.8 km It was a foggy morning that greeted my departure from Tui. It had been drizzling overnight. On my way out of Tui, I passed by the Ponte da Veiga do Louro, a Roman bridge over the Rio Louro. |
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7.8 km → ☺ → 9.7 km At 7.8 km out from Tui in the forest is the Ponte Romana de Orbenlle (Roman Bridge of Orbenlle), crossing the Rio Louro. |
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8.0 km → ☺ → 9.5 km The Camino approaching the town of Orbenlle is a dirt path in the forest. |
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8.2 km → ☺ → 9.3 km There's a Distance Way Marker on the trail in the forest. |
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8.6 km → ☺ → 8.9 km In Orbenlle, there's a fork in Camino and a decision is required! I chose the "Medium Difficulty" 6.47 km "Complementario" route to the left (versus the "Low Difficulty" 5.58 km route to the right). I chose the more difficult route because I'm tough! |
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17.2 km → ☺ → 0.3 km I've arrived in O Porriño. This restaurant has a Way Marker on the scallop decorated balcony. The population of O Porriño is 20,546 (2023) in an area of 61.17 square km. |
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Rúa Ramón González is a shopping street in O Porriño.
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On Rúa Ramón González were these large figurines.
I had arrived during Festas do Cristo (Christ Festival),
which occurs annually in September. There are events and activities each day in September.
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O Porriño Scallop Shell and Me, in the Plaza del Cristo.
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O Porriño Albergue Today was a mellow hazy day on the Camino, with some hills. Due to the issue with WiFi credentials in the Galician municipal hostels, I stayed in a private hostel in O Porriño. Being private, it was nice, with privacy curtains and power outlets and night light in the bed (and WiFi). I was able to resolve the municipal WiFi issue, as I registered the phone number of a colleague that has a European phone number, and he forwarded to me the WiFi credentials that were SMS Text messaged to his phone. These credentials are good at all Galician municipal hostels. |
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Camino Day 9: O Porriño to Redondela |
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Stage 09: 2024 September 22 Start: O Porriño, Spain Veigadaña End: Redondela, Spain Distance: 16.20 km (Total: 166.15 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8178643669 |
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2.7 km → ☺ → 13.5 km I'm on my way to Redondela. The Distance Way Marker indicates there is 100.221 km to Santiago de Compostela |
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3.0 km → ☺ → 13.2 km The Distance Way Marker indicates there are 99.840 km to Santiago de Compostela. It's less than 100 km to the finish! |
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3.3 km → ☺ → 12.9 km This was the view looking east from Camino da Fontina. |
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4.3 km → ☺ → 11.9 km View looking east towards the town of Pedrapinta from Camino de Sanchez Freire. This is 4.3 km out from O Porriño. |
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6.2 km → ☺ → 10.0 km In A Gándara, Mos, is the 16th century Igrexa de Santa Baia de Mos. Santa Baia was a 13-year-old Roman Christian virgin who was martyred in Barcelona during the persecution of Christians in the reign of emperor Diocletian. |
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6.5 km → ☺ → 9.7 km Leaving A Gándara, Mos, there's a Peregrino bench (with Way Marker) and Cruceiro and Distance Way Marker (indicating it is 96.4 km to Santiago de Compostela). As it has been a steady walk up a hill here, the bench is a good spot to take a break. |
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12.2 km → ☺ → 4.0 km There's a nice view of the valley before a steep descent down towards Redondela. |
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12.6 km → ☺ → 3.6 km Still descending steeply, we pass the Albergue O Corisco. |
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13.4 km → ☺ → 2.8 km I'm near Redondela, as the Camino is passing through a suburban area. These Way Markers are at Camino Sanchez Freire and Camino do Souto. |
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13.8 km → ☺ → 2.4 km This Distance Way Marker says it's only 89.310 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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14.2 km → ☺ → 2.0 km I encountered this Stone Stand-In Peregrino at a peregrino rest station, near Redondela. |
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Igrexa de Santiago de Redondela The Igrexa de Santiago de Redondela is, rrom the outside, a simple church with a bell tower and a sculpture of Santiago on the nave. Here I am outside Igrexa de Santiago de Redondela. |
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The interior of the Igrexa de Santiago de Redondela is relatively simple.
There is a stained glass window of scallops and St James crosses.
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Looking north on Rua Isidoro Queimalinos.
This is part of the old town of Redondela, with narrow, winding streets. The population of Redondela is 29,192 (2021), in an area of 51.9 square km |
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Viaductos de Redondela Viaductos de Redondela (Redondela Viaducts) refer to the two railway bridges that pass over Redondela. Here is the Viaducto de Madrid, viewed from Rua Prego de Montaos, Avenida de Ernestina Otero, and Avenida de Ernestina Otero & Paseo da Xunqueira Roundabout. Built in 1876, it is 411 meters in length and 3 meters wide. |
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Redondela Albergue It was a hilly day on the Camino. It was hazy in the morning, but became sunny in the afternoon. With my legs feeling strong, I walked at a good pace nonstop and was #5 in line when I got to the municipal hostel! Being early in line to the hostel, I chose a lower bunk near a power outlet. Note my "privacy" setup at this bunk! |
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Camino Day 10: Redondela to Pontevedra |
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Stage 10: 2024 September 23 Start: Redondela, Spain Cesantes, Bergunde, Lusquiños, O Marco End: Pontevedra, Spain Distance: 18.64 km (Total: 184.79 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8180450581 |
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0.2 km → ☺ → 18.4 km I departed Redondela before sunrise, walking the cobblestone streets. Here I'm at Rua Isidoro Queimalinos and Praza da Constitución 1812 , heading north. Note the Way Marker on the wall on the right. |
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1.7 km → ☺ → 16.9 km At 1.7 km out from the hostel, the Distance Way Marker indicates there is 85.270 km to Santiago de Compostela |
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2.3 km → ☺ → 16.3 km On the Camino Sanchez Freire, just north of Rua Torre de Calle. The Camino is a gravel trail here. |
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3.4 km → ☺ → 15.2 km View looking east at Viña del Señor from Estrada da Teixeira. |
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4.3 km → ☺ → 14.3 km A collection of Peregrino trinkets such as scallop shells, flags, and messages, located next to Casa d'Mina. |
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4.6 km → ☺ → 14.0 km Way Marker .... Infinite distance to Santiago de Compostela (!). It is a dirt trail from here going steeply uphill to a viewpoint. |
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5.2 km → ☺ → 13.4 km Viewpoint of Enseada de Rande (Rande Cove), looking northwest, 5.2 km from Redondela. It was a steep trail to get here, but I could see it was worth it for the view. |
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6.5 km → ☺ → 12.1 km Arriving in the town of Arcade, after 6.5 km on the Camino so far this day. |
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8.2 km → ☺ → 10.4 km View of Ponte Avenida Castela (Arcade) |
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8.3 km → ☺ → 10.3 km South End of Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio, Arcade. This Medieval Roman bridge has 10 arches and dates back to the 11th century, crossing the Rio Verdugo. |
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8.4 km → ☺ → 10.2 km View from Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio, looking north, northwest, and west. This bridge spans the Rio Verdugo and joins the towns of Arcade and A Rabaleira. |
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8.5 km → ☺ → 10.1 km View of the Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio, from the north end of the bridge. At this point, it is 8.5 km from Redondela. |
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10.3 km → ☺ → 8.3 km While walking through the forest on the Camino, there was this nice Peregrino rest stop. |
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11.7 km → ☺ → 6.9 km I've arrived at the hill's summit in Cacheiro; the Distance Way Marker indicates we are 75.500 km from Santiago de Compostela. |
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12.7 km → ☺ → 5.9 km After descending down the hill, the Camino passes next to a field with some horses in it (Bergunde). |
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16.2 km → ☺ → 2.4 km Cruceiro e Monumentos aos Peregrinos (Lusquiños). There's a cruceiro and a scallop shell sculpture greeting peregrinos. |
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16.6 km → ☺ → 2.0 km I'm getting close to Pontevedra, where I run into a bunch of Peregrinos walking north on Lugar O Casal do Rio (Tomeza) on the side of the road. |
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17.6 km → ☺ → 1.0 km Distance Way Marker, showing there is 69.420 km to go to Santiago de Compostela. I've only got 1 km until I reach the albergue in Pontevedra. Unfortunately, much of it is on the side of the road. |
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Fonte Dos Nenos In Pontevedra is the fountain "Fonte Dos Nenos". The fountain has sculptures of a boy drinking water, and a girl waiting for the boy to finish. |
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Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina I visited the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina (Church of the Pilgrim Virgin), located in the historic centre of Pontevedra. Construction began in 1778 and it is one of the most symbolic and important buildings in the city of Pontevedra. It is dedicated to the Virgin who, according to tradition, guided pilgrims from Bayona, in the south-west of the province of Pontevedra, to Santiago de Compostela. |
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Letras de Pontevedra Letras de Pontevedra, on the Plaza de Ourense. As in other cities and towns, this is a popular place for tourists to pose for pictures at. The population of Pontevedra is 83,260 (2020) in an area of 118.3 square km. |
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Convento e Igrexa de San Francisco The Convento e Igrexa de San Francisco (Convent and Church of Saint Francis) is a Franciscan convent located in the city centre of Pontevedra, overlooking the Plaza de la Herrería. The Gothic church of San Francis is attached to the convent on the southeast side. |
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Basílica de Santa María la Mayor Basílica de Santa María la Mayor (Basilica of Saint Mary Major) is located in the old town of Pontevedra, in the Alonso de Fonseca square, and is considered Pontevedra's main church, functioning as a cathedral. This Gothic / Renaissance styled basilica was completed in 1559. |
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Ruinas de San Domingos The Ruinas de San Domingos (Ruins of San Domingos) are the remains of a convent located in Pontevedra. The Convent of Santo Domingo was founded around 1282, and completed in the 15th century. |
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Pontevedra Albergue Today was a nice sunny day, not too hot, and there were some great sites along the Camino. The weather forecast for the rest of my Camino looks wet, so I was enjoying the weather today. The bunks in the hostel were tightly packed, but there were some privacy boards between beds. The WiFi reception in the dorm area was poor, and there were no power outlets in the dorm. One basically had to go to the common area for WiFi and device charging. |
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Camino Day 11: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis |
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Stage 11: 2024 September 24 Start: Pontevedra, Spain Pontecabras, San Amaro, Tivo End: Caldas de Reis, Spain Distance: 23.40 km (Total: 208.19 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8182568926 |
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2.1 km → ☺ → 21.3 km I'm leaving Pontevedra by crossing Río Lérez on Ponte do Burgo. As forecast, it was raining and was windy. The forecast was for big rains all day. Looking west on the Río Lérez is Ponte das Correntes. |
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8.2 km → ☺ → 15.2 km Because of the heavy rains, there were not many pictures this day. After 8.2 km of walking in the rain, there was this Distance Way Marker, indicating there are 60.000 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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13.1 km → ☺ → 10.3 km It's the "Stop Complaining" Sign. I'm trying not to complain about the constant rain this day. The Stop Complaining Sign says there are only 55 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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18.5 km → ☺ → 4.9 km The Distance Way Marker in O Porto indicates there are 49.630 km to Santiago de Compostela. It has been raining, usually heavily, all the way this day. |
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Ponte Romana do Río Bermaña Ponte Romana do Río Bermaña (Roman Bridge on the Río Bermaña), as seen from the hostel in Caldas de Reis. Caldas de Reis is a town with a population of 9,860 (2018) and an area of 68.16 square km. |
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Fonte Termal das Burgas Fonte Termal das Burgas (Burgas Hot Spring) are natural hot springs located in Caldas de Reis. The water emerges at a temperature of 43° C (109° F). I'm soaking my feet; the water was indeed hot! |
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Caldas de Reis Albergue Rain. More Rain. I (and other pilgrims) were soaked this day. Of course, the sun came out in the afternoon. The room I was in had 5 individual beds. There were power outlets available at each bed. It was nice enough, but not much facilities for clothes washing and drying. What was handy was there was a small portable heater, which we exploited to dry our shoes. |
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Camino Day 12: Caldas de Reis to Padrón |
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Stage 12: 2024 September 25 Start: Caldas de Reis, Spain O Cruceiro, As Cernadas, San Miguel, Pontecesures End: Padrón, Spain Distance: 18.78 km (Total: 226.97 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8184318976 |
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7.9 km → ☺ → 10.9 km The Distance Way Marker indicates there is 36.900 km to Santiago de Compostela. Due to the weather forecast of heavy rains later in the morning, many of my fellow peregrinos and I started our walk an hour before sunrise, hoping to minimize our exposure to the heavy rains. The first 4 kilometers were done in the dark with headlamps on, as we were in the forest and there was no lighting. It was also foggy and drizzling, but at least it wasn't heavy rains and wind (yet). Thus, there were no pictures until almost 8 km into the walk, until this Way Marker. |
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9.5 km → ☺ → 9.3 km Angry Geese on the Camino! They all stuck their heads over the wall and just started honking loudly at me as I walked by. |
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9.6 km → ☺ → 9.2 km Distance Way Marker indicates there are 35.170 km to Santiago de Compostela. Currently in Valga. |
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10.9 km → ☺ → 7.9 km Descending on the Camino in the forest (Valga). |
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11.4 km → ☺ → 7.4 km Distance Way Marker indicates there are 33.390 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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11.8 km → ☺ → 7.0 km Distance Way Marker indicates there are 33.000 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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14.8 km → ☺ → 4.0 km Distance Way Marker indicates there are 29.870 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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16.5 km → ☺ → 2.3 km Ponte Romana de Pontecesures is a bridge of Roman origin over the Río Ulla, connecting the towns of Pontecesures on the east bank and Padrón on the west bank of the river. The bridge dates back to 1 AD, but much of the reconstruction of the bridge done in the 12th century. |
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17.6 km → ☺ → 1.2 km Walking north next to the Río Sar, next to the Concello de Dodro Sign, near Padron. |
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18.4 km → ☺ → 0.4 km Monumento A Camilo José Cela, a writer from Padrón. The two spheres symbolize creation and knowledge. |
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18.6 km → ☺ → 0.2 km The Puente de Santiago (Santiago Bridge) crosses the Río Sar, with the Convento del Carmen in the background. The Padrón albergue is next to the convento. The rains were getting heavy as I arrived at the albergue. It has been raining on and off this day. |
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Padrón Albergue Despite it being cloudy and drizzly at times during the walk this day, I remained relatively dry and thus was somewhat happy. There was a lot of walking through forests today. I walked nonstop at a brisk pace as I was worried about the forecast of rain, so when I arrived at the albergue, I was #3 in line (my top finish). As it started raining heavily when I got there, they opened up the hostel early. The bunks in the dorm are packed together closely and offer very little privacy, so one has to rig up shirts and towels to provide some privacy. As I got there early, I was able to get a bottom bunk near a power outlet. It was a cozy stay, as it was a stormy night. |
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Camino Day 13: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela |
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Stage 13: 2024 September 26 Start: Padrón, Spain A Picaraña, Ameneiro, A Rocha Vella End: Santiago de Compostela, Spain Distance: 25.29 km (Total: 252.26 km) Map My Ride Link: www.mapmyride.com/workout/8186713537 |
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0.4 km → ☺ → 24.9 km It's the beginning of my last day on the Camino! The forecast for today is a mix of rain, clouds, and sun. Hopefully, there will be a lot more sun than rain. It starts out with a light drizzle. First Distance Way Marker I encounter indicates there are 25.720 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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6.4 km → ☺ → 18.9 km Santuario da Escravitude is a chapel located 6 km north of Padrón, built in the 18th century. Legend has it that, in 1732, a sick man from O Salnés who was on his way to Santiago to be treated for his illness stopped to drink here and asked the Virgin for help. Three days later he was cured. |
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6.6 km → ☺ → 18.7 km The Distance Way Marker says there are only 19.360 km to Santiago de Compostela. This is the turn off on the path to head into the town of Cruces. |
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7.3 km → ☺ → 18.0 km View from the Camino in Cruces, looking north on the path and to the east, 7.32 km out from Padrón. The path makes a right turn ahead. The weather so far this day has been a mix of rain, clouds, sunny breaks, and drizzle. Compared to Day 11, this was nice as it wasn't cold and I remained relatively dry. |
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8.6 km → ☺ → 16.7 km The Camino goes under a grape vine trellis in Angueira de Suso. There was something soothing about walking under grape vines. |
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13.1 km → ☺ → 12.2 km Distance Way Marker ... 12.840 km to Santiago de Compostela, 13.14 km out from Padron, (Osebe) This is approximately the halfway point for this day's walk. I'm getting close to the finish. The sun has also come out! |
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16.1 km → ☺ → 9.2 km The Distance Way Marker says I'm 9.870 km from Santiago de Compostela. I'm starting to look for the distance markers, counting down the distance remaining on my pilgrimmage. |
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18.1 km → ☺ → 7.2 km I've been walking nonstop previous days, but today, I'm taking a coffee break! I'm having a Cafe Americano and bun in the town of O Milladoiro. |
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18.5 km → ☺ → 6.8 km From the Camino, through the haze, I get my first view of Santiago de Compostela and the Catedral de Santiago in the distance. I am so close... |
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19.2 km → ☺ → 6.1 km As per the Distance Way Marker, I'm 6.66 km from Santiago de Compostela. Hmmm, that's a devilish distance remaining on my pilgrimage. |
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20.9 km → ☺ → 4.4 km I'm only 4.918 km from Santiago de Compostela. The sun would come out, then it would rain for 10 minutes, then the sun would come out. Some higher power is testing me! |
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22.1 km → ☺ → 3.2 km The Distance Way Marker says I'm 3.718 km from Santiago de Compostela. So close. This is the last section of forest path before I enter the city. |
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22.5 km → ☺ → 2.8 km There's a fork in Camino, and I have to make a decision on which way to go! The choice: Santa Marta (1.7 km) to the left, Conxo (2.3 km) to the right. After much pondering, I chose the Santa Marta path! What would you choose after walking over 22 km so far? |
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22.8 km → ☺ → 2.5 km This Distance Way Marker, indicating 2.427 km to Santiago de Compostela, is the last one I'll see before getting to the Catedral de Santiago. I'll be traversing city streets from here. The population of Santiago de Compostela is 97,849 (2020), in an area of 220 square km. |
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25.0 km → ☺ → 0.3 km I have a view of one of the towers of the Catedral de Santiago, from the Rua do Franco. There are a mix of tourists and peregrinos on the narrow streets of Santiago de Compostela. Although the sun is out, there is a light rain as I approach the Catedral (note the umbrellas and raingear in use). |
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25.3 km → ☺ → 0.0 km I've arrived at the Catedral de Santiago, in Santiago de Compostela. This marks the completion of my Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, having walked 252 km in 13 days. As if on cue, the sun is out; this is my reward for completing the Camino de Santiago! |
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After completing the Camino de Santiago, it was time to collect the Compostela.
There was a lineup at the Oficina de Acollida ó Peregrino (Pilgrim Reception Office),
but after walking for 13 days, I can wait a few more minutes. Thus, I received the Compostela, documenting my completion of the Camino de Santiago. |
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The altar at the Catedral de Santiago has three depictions of Santiago. |
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“Sepulcrum Sancti Iacobi Gloriosum” is a Latin phrase that
translates to "tomb of the glorious Saint James".
This is where what is believed to be the remains of Santiago is interred.
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Pilgrims Mass I attended the Pilgrims Mass in the evening. It was packed, so I was stuck standing in the back. The mass was performed in Spanish, so I didn't know what was going on! Suddenly, after 35 minutes, six robed guys appeared, and started manipulating the Botafumeiro (which is a large thurible). The Botafumeiro in the Catedral de Santiago is the largest in the world, weighing 80 kg and measuring 1.60 m in height. The smoke from the Botafumeiro was originally used to clean the air when crowds of pilgrims, having completed the Camino de Santiago, arrived in Santiago de Compostela after their long journey. Being really tired and being sleepy during the Mass, once they started swinging the Botafumeiro that was hanging 20m from the ceiling, it really woke me up and was quite an interesting event. It was moving fast once they got it swinging. |
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Albergue Monte do Gozo
I could not find an albergue in town (Santiago de Compostela), so I had to book this one, located 4 km from the Catedral. I walked to the hostel after the Pilgrims Mass. The WiFi was only available in the reception area and cafeteria and not available in the dorms. I also got stuck in the upper bunk. The residents of this hostel was a mix of pilgrims and immigrants. |
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Santiago de Compostela |
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No longer a peregrino, my role as a tourist begins!
Today, I'll visit some museums in Santiago de Compostela. |
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Museo da Catedral de Santiago de Compostela The Museo da Catedral de Santiago de Compostela provides an understanding of the history and art of the Cathedral. Pieces dating back from the Middle Ages includes sculptures paintings, tapestries, goldsmithing, robes, furniture, and religious relics make up the collection. |
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There are old bells on display in the museum's 16th century cloister courtyard. |
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There is a large scallop water bowl in the museum's cloister courtyard. |
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A Golden Santiago as a pilgrim. |
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This is an intricate Golden Custodia Procesional, made of gilded silver, completed in 1573.
Note the detail. |
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There is a nice view of the Praza do Obradoiro from balcony on the west side of the museum. |
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A Coruña |
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A Coruña has two main beaches. In the foreground is Playa del Orzán (Orzán Beach),
and in the background (to the right) is Praia de Riazor (Riazor Beach) This beach town has a population of 249,964 (2024) in an area of 37.83 square km. |
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Museo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología The Museo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología (National Museum of Science and Technology) objectives are to contribute to popularizing science and improving the scientific education of all citizens, as well as to preserve and enhance the historical heritage of science and technology. |
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Texas Instruments TI-30 Calculator ... wow, I remember these! |
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Front section of a Boeing 747 and one of it's engines.
This Boeing first flew in 1981, and was retired in 2003. |
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IBM 650 Computer.
Over 2,000 systems were produced between 1954 and 1962. |
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Old movie projectors. |
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Museo de Belas Artes da Coruña The Museo de Belas Artes da Coruña displays paintings, drawings, sculptures, engravings, decorative arts and archaeology from Galicia. |
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Torre de Hércules The Torre de Hércules (Tower of Hercules) is a 68 meter tall Roman lighthouse. First built in the late 1st or early 2nd century, during the rule of Emperor Trajan, it is the oldest working Roman lighthouse in the world, and the symbol of the city. The lighthouse is popular with tourists, as it's location also provides great ocean views. |
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The sweeping views from atop the Torre de Hércules of the ocean and A Coruña were great.
Note the Rosa de los Vientos (Compass Rose) in the foreground,
with the eight needles that indicate the cardinal points with symbols that identify the Celtic nations:
the scallop, Galicia; the skull, Tarshish; the shamrock, Ireland; the thistle, Scotland;
the triskelion, the Isle of Man; the dragon, Wales; the chalice, Cornwall; the ermine, Brittany. With the lantern perched 68 meters high, the light cast by the lighthouse's lantern can be seen as far as 50 km out at sea. However, one had to climb 242 steps up the stairs to get to the viewing area. |
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Casa das Ciencias The Casa das Ciencias (House of Sciences) is an interactive museum conveying scientific priciples and concepts. |
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Demonstration of Foucaults Pendulum, showing the earth moves while the pendulum path remains the same,
and the period of the pendulum is dependant on the length of the string. |
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León |
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León, a city on the Bernesga River in northwest Spain, is the capital of the Province of León.
It has a population of 124,772 (2018) and an area of 39.03 km2 (15.07 sq mi). The "León" letters are located in the plaza in front of the Catedral de León. As is in other towns, the letters are popular with tourists. |
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Antigua Murallas de León Built of stone and mortar, the Antigua Murallas de León (Ancient Walls of León) are the remains of the wall that surrounded León. Sections of the wall date back to the Roman times. |
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Estatua Alfonso IX Statue of Alfonso IX , Rey de León, located in the Plaza de Santo Martino. |
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Arco de la Cárcel The Arco de la Cárcel is the stone city entrance gate dating to Roman times and rebuilt over the centuries, topped with a statue. |
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Basilica de San Isidoro The original Church was built by the King Alfonso the 5th over the ruins of poor materials and was devoted to Saint John the Baptist. It was rebuilt in stone in the Romanesque style by the King Fernando the 1st and the Queen Sancha under the patronage of Saint Isidoro whose remains arrived here in 1063. Afterwards was enriched by the Queen Sancha Raimundez in the 12th Century. |
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Museo de San Isidoro The Museo de San Isidoro, located to the west of the Basilica de San Isidoro, houses works of art related to the history of the ancient Kingdom of Leon, as well as to its diocese. |
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The original Veleta del Gallo (Weather Cock) that sat atop the Torre del Gallo (Cock Tower)
originates from the 7th Century The Torre del Gallo (Cock Tower) at the Basilica de San Isidoro and the current Weather Cock. |
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Cáliz de Doña Urraca In the Museo de San Isidoro is the Cáliz de Doña Urraca (Chalice of Doña Urraca) - Is this the Holy Grail? |
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Catedral de León Catedral de León (León Cathedral), dedicated to Saint Mary, mother of Jesus, is known as the Pulchra Leonina and is a masterpiece of the Gothic style of the mid-13th century. The design is attributed to the Master Mason Enrique. By the mid 15th century it was virtually completed. |
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The Altar Mayor (Main Altar) in Catedral de León has a baroque sculpture of the Virgin and around it are
distributed five panels recovered from the altarpiece of Nicolás Francés and other panels
from the Castilian School of two origins,
with six small scenes of the Life of the Virgin,
four of them from the church of Palanquinos attributed to the so-called Master of Palanquinos,
another two from the altarpiece of the church of Santa María del Mercado de León,
which are the ones that form the bench, and two more from Palanquinos with three Apostles each:
Andrew, John and Paul on one side and Peter, James and Thomas on the other.
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Dating back from the 13th to 15th century, the Stained Glass Windows in the Catedral de León
cover over 1,800 square meters and include 130 church windows and three rose windows. |
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Sculpture of Santiago Matamoros slaying Moors, in the León Cathedral Museum. |
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Globetrotter Urban Hostel (León)- My bed is the upper bunk. |
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Madrid |
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Puerta del Sol Located in the heart of Madrid is Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun), a public square that has the centre (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads. It is also the de facto geographical centre of Spain. Madrid is the capital of Spain and has a population of 3,223,334 (2018) in an area of 604.31 square km. |
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I'm in Puerta del Sol, with my foot on the Km 0 marker.
It serves as the kilometre zero from which all radial roads in Spain are measured. |
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Museo Del Prado Located in central Madrid is the Museo Nacional del Prado, the main Spanish national art museum. It houses collections of European art, dating from the 12th century to the early 20th century, based on the former Spanish royal collection, and the single best collection of Spanish art. |
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The Tooth-Puller (Theodoor Rombouts 1625) A tooth-puller treats a stoical patient surrounded by a large group of onlookers whose different gestures convey their surprise. Basing himself on the Flemish tradition of the group portrait, Rombouts reflects Caravaggio’s interest in the depiction of picturesque figure types based on ordinary people. Besides the diplomas or titles, perhaps fake, certifying his training, his best calling card is his experience, substantiated by a collar of teeth worn around his neck. Would-be customers carefully watch him working and wait their turn. |
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Saint Bernard and the Virgin (Alonso Cano 1652 or 1660) |
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Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza The Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza is an art gallery of old and modern masters located in Madrid , Spain . Its existence is due to the lease agreement (1988) and the subsequent acquisition, by the Spanish Government (1993), of the most valuable core of the private collection amassed over seven decades by the Thyssen-Bornemisza family. |
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Bullfight (Pablo Picasso 1934) Picasso was fascinated by the national sport Spain. The bull, the artist’s alter ego, is laden with symbolism, although always infused with ambiguous meanings. |
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Woman with a Parasol in a Garden (Pierre-Auguste Renoir 1875) A typical Renoir impressionistic painting, in a setting lacking a visible horizon, the flowers and shrubs are created with tiny dabs of colour, providing a constant interweaving of textures around the two small figures. |
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Museo Reina Sofia The Museo Reina Sofia is museum of 20th-century and contemporary art, located in the city of Madrid. It was built in the former General Hospital of Madrid, a large 18th century neoclassical building located in the Atocha area, near the train station. |
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Guernica (Pablo Picasso, 1937) portrays the suffering wrought by the 26 April 1937 bombing of Guernica, a town in the Basque Country in northern Spain, by Nazi Germany. Prominently featured in the composition are a gored horse, a bull, screaming women, a dead baby, a dismembered soldier, and flames. |
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The Invisible Man (Salvador Dali 1932) is a surrealist painting,
where yellow clouds become the man s hair;
his face and upper torso are formed by ruined architecture that is scattered in the landscape
and a waterfall creates the vague outline of his legs.
As with almost all of Dali's work around this time, this painting deals with his fear of sex. |
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Mannequin (Angel Ferrant, 1946, a wood and metal sculpture, is determined by its function: the parts which would be visible once the figure is dressed (head and neck, forearms and hands, legs and feet) and are mimetically sculpted in the round, whereas the hidden part of the figure is more closely connected to a tradition of automata representation, stemming from the early avant-gardes’ delight in assembly. |
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Puerta de Alcalá The Puerta de Alcalá is a Neo-classical gate in the Plaza de la Independencia in Madrid, Spain. It was a gate of the former Walls of Philip IV. It stands near the city center and several meters away from the main entrance to the Parque del Buen Retiro |
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Palacio de Cibeles Palacio de Cibeles is a complex composed of two buildings with white facades and is located in one of the historical centres of Madrid, Spain. Formerly the city's main post office and telegraph and telephone headquarters, it is now occupied by City Council of Madrid, serving as the city hall, and the public cultural centre CentroCentro. |
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Plaza Mayor Plaza Mayor was once the centre of Old Madrid. It was first built (1580–1619) during the reign of Philip III. |
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Columna de Calatrava An obelisk designed by Santiago Calatrava located in the Plaza de Castilla in Madrid, Spain. The monument was intended to commemorate the 300th anniversary of Caja Madrid. |
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-------- Miscellaneous Things -------- |
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Camino Way Markers |
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In Matosinhos, the Way Marker on the Portuguese Coastal Way is a rusty brown metal pillar. |
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In the municipality of Barcelos, they have concrete Distance Way Markers with the distance, in km, to Santiago de Compostela.
This markers says there is 184 km to Santiago de Compostela. |
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The Distance Way Marker in Galicia has the distance, in km, to Santiago de Compostela.
It has the distance down to the meter. Here, we have the newer style Way Marker on the left and the older style Way Marker on the right. |
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Sometimes a Way Marker is a yellow arrow painted on the curb.
Here, the yellow arrow is painted on the curb of the traffic sign island. |
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The Parish of Vila Boa has a yellow sign indicating the direction to go for the Camino de Santiago. |
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This homeowner put a little Way marker next to his mail slot (Viana do Castelo District, Portugal). |
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The Seara - Ponte de Lima Way Marker has a blue background and includes the Seara - Ponte de Lima coat of arms. |
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This Way Marker in the town of Tui (on Rúa Piñeiro) is embedded on the ground among the cobblestones. |
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Typically, as one enters a new town or region, there are Camino Information Signs.
They provide information on the Camino ahead such as a map and points of interest.
The sign shown here (in Arcade) also provided distance and terrain information. |
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Peregrino Tributes |
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"Peregrina", in Barcelos (artist: Joaquim Esteves) Is she happy? Is she feeling the pain as it is still 195 km to Santiago de Compostela? |
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The Niche of Santiago is located across from the Capela de São Sebastião, near Facha. The niche has a tile representation of Santiago the Apostle as a Pilgrim. The date on the niche is 1840. |
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Peregrino statue, near Facha. |
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Stone Stand-In Peregrino, near Redondela. This was a great prop for me to see what I would look like as a medieval pilgrim. |
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Pedestals with the Scallop Shell, St James Cross, and peregrino garb, near Pontevedra. |
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Located in the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina (Church of the Pilgrim Virgin) in Pontevedra is a depiction of the Virgin Mary as a pilgrim.
She is dressed in traditional pilgrim garb consisting of a staff, calabaza, scallop shell, hat, and cape. |
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Peregrino statue near the Fonte Termal das Burgas, in Caldas de Reis. |
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The Monumento ao Camiñante (Monument to the Walker) is located in Monte do Gozo (east of Santiago de Compostela. |
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Peregrino Stuff |
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Peregrino Credentials Here is my Credencial de Peregrino (Peregrino Credentials) before I started the Camino. This is the document that identifies me as a pilgrim and allows me to stay in "peregrino only" albergues. I collected at least two stamps per day while on the Camino. Here is a scan of the final collection of stamps I accumulated in my Credencial de Peregrino. |
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Scallop Shell The use of the scallop shell as a symbol of pilgrimage dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was used to identify the destination of pilgrims traveling to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It is common for pilgrims to attach a scallop shell to their backpack; here's my backpack with the scallop shell. |
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La Compostela The Compostela is the document that certifies that the pilgrim has completed the Camino de Santiago. The text is in Latin; the translation to English of my Compostela is:
"The Chapter of this Holy Apostolic and Metropolitan Cathedral of Compostela,
custodian of the seal of the Altar of St. James,
to all the Faithful and pilgrims who arrive from anywhere on the Orb of the Earth
with an attitude of devotion or because of a vow
or promise make a pilgrimage to the Tomb of the Apostle,
Our Patron Saint and Protector of Spain, recognises before all who observe this document that: Mister
has devotedly visited this most sacred temple having done the last hundred kilometers
on foot or on horseback or the last two hundred by bicycle with Christian sentiment (pietatis causa).
In witness whereof I present this document endorsed with the seal of this same Holy Church. |
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Certificado de Distancia (Certificate of Distance) The Certificado de Distancia (Certificate of Distance) provides a record of a pilgrim's journey. It includes the starting point and the total distance covered to reach Santiago de Compostela. The translation to English of my Certificado de Distancia is:
"All the days and nights, as if in one continuous celebration,
are dedicated with joy to the honor of the Lord and the apostles.
The doors of the same basilica are closed both day and night,
and it is in no way allowed to have darkness in it (cf. Rev 21:25),
because it shines with the splendid light of candles
and lamps as bright as midday. (Calixtinian Codex)
has visited the Basilica where, from time immemorial,
Christians venerate the body of the Blessed Apostle Santiago. |
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Peregrino Statistics In the Ponte de Lima Albergue, the 2023 statistics regarding peregrinos at this albergue were posted in the lobby. Some interesting peregrino statistics include: |
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Transportation |
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Airplane My outbound flight was from Vancouver to Toronto on Porter Airlines (Flight PD306), and from Toronto to Porto on Air Transat (Flight TS764). My return flight was from Madrid to Montreal on Air Transat (Flight TS385), and from Montreal to Vancouver on Porter Airlines (Flight PD375). Pictured is the plane I took from Madrid to Montreal. We had to take the stairs to board the plane in Madrid. It appears Air Transat doesn't get to use the jetway gates ... those are for the "real" airlines. |
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High Speed Train I took the RENFE High Speed Train from León to Madrid. It was travelling at 300 km/hr at times, and was very smooth. The train was very comfortable and lots of leg room; it was a nice ride. |
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Metro Pictured are the Metro in Porto and in Madrid. In Porto, I took the Metro from the Porto Airport to my albergue (hostel). This was my only ride on the Porto Metro. In Madrid, my hostel was approximately 6 km from the city centre, so I used the Metro to get downtown and back. I also used the Metro to transport me to Madrid Airport for my return flight. |
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Intercity Buses Pictured are the Intercity buses I took to get from Santiago de Compostela to A Coruña, and from A Coruña to León. The buses were reasonably comfortable and clean, and were a good economical way to travel between cities. |
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My Legs! The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage that can be done by horse, bicycle, or walking. I did the Camino by walking it (walking was the way the ancient pilgrims did it), so my legs was the mode of transport on this Camino. The legs were very tired for the first couple of stages of my Camino, but I did notice by the fourth stage that I my legs were feeling strong. I did have minor blisters between my big toe and second toe on both feet. From what I can see from other pilgrims and their blisters, I had it good with how minor my blisters were. I did wrap my big toe and second toe before each walk to reduce the rubbing between them. |
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2024 Camino de Santiago Trip - Prologue |
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Doing the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage was a great (and tough) experience.
There was certainly a lot of interaction with fellow "peregrinos" (pilgrims), as
we all had the same goal of getting to Santiago de Compostela. We were also going
through similar pains, such as blistered feet and getting soaked during the heavy
rain days. Staying in albergues de peregrinos (pilgram hostels) allowed interaction,
learning about who we are and why we are doing it. For me, the first few days were tough, but once one gets their "camino legs" and manages the blisters, it was a great experience. During the Camino, one had structure ... get up early, eat some breakfast, walk, find the albergue, check in, go buy food for dinner and breakfast, shower, sleep, repeat. Completing the Camino in Santiago de Compostela was a bit anti-climatic; it is truly the journey and not the destination. |
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Check out my Tweets during the trip 
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Contact Chany
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